Snowpatch spire and eastpost rest day snowpatch route 5. From the summit of snowpatch spire, the bugaboos, british columbia, canada. One of the most climbed and most enjoyed routes in the bugaboos. It is located southwest of the conrad kain hut, across the crescent glacier. The descent via the kain route went into the morning of july 28th.
In peter croft style, cory hall has linked four of the. A week in the bugaboos western ridgelinescarl kohnstamm. Welcome to bugaboo rock guides, an alpine rock climbing and mountaineering guiding service specializing in bugaboo adventures. We did the ne ridge of bugaboo spire, there was sketchy snow on the 3rd class approach but it was otherwise unaffected. Bugaboo definition for englishlanguage learners from. Beautiful views of alpine lakes, glaciers, and surrounding alpine peaks. The bugaboos are protected within bugaboo provincial park. We used a left variation on pitches three to five, ascending a long rightfacing corner to rejoin the line in the guidebook at the roof. With crowds and the size of the route, its not uncommon for folks to bivy on the rock, on the descent, or at the col. First trip and some beta to the bugaboos chasing mastery. As ralph widrig, joe hieb and i trudged to camp at timberline with heavy packs, the solid granite of the bugaboo spires looked inviting, for the poor rock we had encountered in the rockies, excepting only on mount louis, had caused our interest to wane. Climb in one of the worlds great alpine rock climbing areas. Keep an eye on the acmg mcr to get info on the bugaboo snowpatch col conditions.
It runs up the left side of the eastern face of snowpatch spire and descends the western face. Visit on looking nw from the crescent bugaboo col towards spear spire and east peak. If a summer like 2009 happens again, then both climbing and rappelling the pigeon snowpatch rappels might be a new way to approach the west face routes. Where were these perfect looking granite peaks surrounded by beautiful snowfields and glaciers. I really doubt you will see crowds on anything except the few most popular routes pigeon spire, kaine route and northeast ridge. Either of the two will be a major undertaking and standing on top of bugaboo spire should be every climber. Snowpatch spire, bugaboos, august 1997 the classic view of the east face of snowpatch spire. Youll first set your eyes on this spire from the parking lot and will identify it by its huge patch of snow found half way up the side of the east face. The bugaboos are a british columbia provincial park in canadas purcell mountains.
Bugaboo spire is one of canadas great peaks and our certified bugaboos rock climbing guide staff this area very well. Divine intervention topo we climbed the sunshine route on snowpatch spire which had lots of fun meatandpotatoes crack climbing. The east face of snowpatch spire, named for a snowfield that clings to the. Please practice handwashing and social distancing, and. The impressive snowpatch spire is the most obvious spire when entering the bugaboos. Definition of bugaboo written for english language learners from the merriamwebster learners dictionary with audio pronunciations, usage examples, and countnoncount noun labels. There is a valley the camp looks over to the south and is surrounded by snowpatch spire, bugaboo spire and east post spire. Located near snowpatch spire, the hut replaced the original fibreglass igloos placed by bc parks. Please visit our bugaboos ascents page for more details price. Snowpatch spire 10050 is one of the hardest of the bugaboo spires. An object of often obsessive fear, anxiety, or irritation. Bugaboo definition of bugaboo by the free dictionary. During the 1970s, i often would hear climbers proudly say.
Since i saw the pictures of the bugaboo splitter cracks soaring above glaciers, ive been wanting to go to the bugaboos. Bugaboo provincial park is located in the purcell mountains of. The steep walls and ridges of bugaboo, snowpatch and pidgeon spires as well as the howser towers are what hold the attention of most of our guests. Snowpatch spire, beckeymather route, first free ascent. Bugaboos guided alpine rock climbing in the bugaboos. The bonus is boots and glacier gear can be left at the base as the route is rappelled. Climbing the col is the main reason you will want crampons. The bugaboos or the bugs bugaboo provincial park is regarded as canadas best destination for alpine rock climbing. Research the route the best you can before heading up, of course. There are both bolted and free routes throughout the group. While we probably did the first two pitches, we are sure that we and the other party ahead of us went off route for the rest of the route. Just to the east, the bugaboo glacier gouges past marmolata spire to plunge in a broken frenzy of ice to the valley floor.
A headsup about rock fall in the bugaboo snowpatch col from heidi the kain hut custodian. The bugaboos are a mountain range in the purcell mountains of eastern british columbia, canada. By this point in the trip, we all felt confident and we scrambled along together unroped, enjoying the movement and the vistas and the company. Alpelow on snowpatch, pigeon, and bugbaboo spire seen from the slot we scrambled up to reach the col. The kain route, or south ridge, of bugaboo spire is a quality alpine route with a long scrambling section, followed by several pitches of 4th and mid5th class climbing in a beautiful and exposed position.
Conrad kain once described this spire as being unclimbable. If, like most people, you enter the bugs via the trail to conrad kain hut, you wont have to ask anyone for directions to snowpatch. The standard approach is via bugaboo snowpatch col. Colin moorhead and i rolled out of golden at 6pm on friday august 19th, bound for the bugaboos. Rock climbing routes in snowpatch spire, the bugaboos. The west ridge of pigeon spire is one of the classics of the bugaboos.
Snowpatch spire, with pigeon spire in the background on the right, hounds tooth and marmolata spire on the left. One 3 meter wet section of rock on the hand traverse leading to the base of the snowpatch. Climb with us in the bugaboos a spectacular alpine rock climbing area in british columbias purcell range. Climb with us in the bugaboos a spectacular alpine rock climbing area in british. Bugaboo spire is one of the tallest peaks in this area and offers two classic routes the ne ridge iv, 5. Rock climbing in the bugaboos sylvan rocks climbing. Ive been meaning to create something like this for awhile. Top on my list was the beckeychouinard route on south howser tower a fifty classic. Private climbing departures are very popular and are available from late june to early september. Bonom and i set off to climb the kraussmccarthy route on snowpatch spire the morning after we arrived. We are both acmgifmga mountain guides, based in invermere, bc the gateway to the bugaboos.
This trip report from the bugaboos is long overdue. Jul 21, 2018 my partner did the easy route in pigeon reported some snow on route but nothing too bad. Beckeys bugaboo hat trick snowpatch and bugaboo spire 1959 supertopos climbing discussion forum is the worlds most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. Bugaboo definition, something that causes fear or worry. Tim banfield the line of the beckeymather route on the east face of snowpatch spire in the bugaboos. From the col we work our way, often by headlamp, through the lower 3rd and 4th class sections of the route.
Snowpatch spire 10,050 feet this dominant buttress holds over 50 routes from 5. Once you climb up higher you can see there are actually several lakes very close to camp. We are most comfortable making the tough decisions in regards to weather and conditions on lofty alpine objectives. Its right in front of you when you reach the hut, the distinctive snowfield that gives the mountain its name front and center.
Bugaboos definition of bugaboos by the free dictionary. A moderate fall of snow, heaviest on sat afternoontemperatures will be well below freezing max 7c on thu night, min 11c on thu morningwind will be generally light. Bugaboo provincial park is one of the best alpine climbing destinations in the world. The beckeychouinard south howser spire, west ridge pigeon spire, northeast ridge bugaboo spire, snowpatch and surfs up snowpatch spire attract worldclass climbers. Its behind the hut though that the scene explodes, for dwarfing otherwise spectacular spires nearby are the huge granite walls of snowpatch and bugaboo spires.
Sunshine cracks on snowpatch was in condition as well, if you can climb wet 10d offwidth. Large solid granite spires that have a variety of quality cracks. Snowpatch spire is the centerpiece of the bugaboo group. Once you arrive you can take your pick of any one of the many classic lines. Canadian rockies alpine guides the bugaboos, world famous. The bs col is still in excellent shape and travel on the pigeon fork of the bugaboo glacier also looks to be in good. With its first ascent in 1940, snowpatch spire mountain peak was the last of the bugaboo spires to be climbed. From the conrad kain hut an early start has us climbing toward the bugaboo snowpatch col. A week in the bugaboos august 2026, 2016 varsity outdoor club.
The climbing was certainly challenging, and the weather provided some more anticipation to the routes, but despite these challenges, climbing these spires was a great way to spend a summer week. Soon after my first trip to the bugaboos in 2006 click for trip report and photos, i began to make plans to return to this amazing climbing meca. Id been to the nearby rockypoint ridge and got a headon panorama view of these spires, but never been to the core area. Bugaboo spire climbing guide british columbia climbing. Your guides coach you up the steep snow slopes, moving quickly through the col. It follows a continuous crack system for almost 300 metres and has everything from fingers to offwidth. Snowpatch spire, snowpatch route aka southeast corner 5. The route begins at the bugaboo snowpatch col and climbs mostly easy fifthclass up a ridge until the crux. The bugaboos of british columbia are an amazing group of huge granite spires towering above a sea of glaciers.
Sep 19, 2012 everyone was eager to bag the renowned conrad kain route on bugaboo spire. There are both bolted and free routes throughout the. If you want to maximize the time spend on rock relative to your approach time, there are much better places for alpine climbing in western canada than the bugaboos. For our last climb, we wanted to get on snowpatch spire, so we decided on surfs up. Sunshine is on the north face, which can be approached by following the trail from the hut about a quarter way up toward the snowpatchbugaboo col to a large, loose ledge.
I knew that someday i wanted to experience this magical playground for myself these dreamy peaks are located in southeast british columbia and are part of the. We climbed pitch 7 as defined by the topo in two pitches. Eastpost spire is the most popular scramble objective and offers a good introduction. Bugaboos climbing guides professional guided ascents with. Thanks to leif for showing me the area, and for being great company all week. First trip and some beta to the bugaboos chris september 2, 2016 september 2, 2016 1 comment ahhhh the bugaboos. Beckeys bugaboo hat trick snowpatch and bugaboo spire. We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better. The route takes a circuitous path to the base of the snowpatch, then up easy. During my many trips across the bugaboo snowpatch col to climb the classic towerspigeon spires west ridge, bugaboo spires kain route i always looked at the black north face of snowpatch spire, and the striking crack that it held.
Overview snowpatch spire is the centerpiece of the bugaboo group. The first time i saw photos of the bugaboos i was dazzled. The east face of snowpatch spire with all the free routes on it. In summer, it is one of the most spectacular places on the planet, a magical place of ice and granite. For a a real day, do the whole route after it meets up with the ne ridge of bugaboo spire, and then carry over and come down the kain route. A steep wall of rock, known as a gendarme, creates a technical climbing crux on an otherwise scrambley line. Snowpatch route, southeast corner, and wiessners route.
It stands just to the west of applebee campground and is host to over 50 routes from 5. Canadian rockies alpine guides the bugaboos, world. One look at the glaciated granite spires of the bugaboos and youll agree that the definition is well fitting. The bugaboos in bc canada between cranbrook and golden, truly an alpine experience to treasure and remember. Bugaboos 2007 beckeychouinard, nw ridge hounds tooth. This is one of roper and stecks fifty classic climbs of north america. The route takes a circuitous path to the base of the snowpatch, then up easy ground left of the snow, and then 34 hard pitches all with some 5. Photo by luke laeser the north face of snowpatch spire, as seen from the applebee campground, bugaboos, british columbia. The snowpatch route on spowpatch spire in the bugaboos is a classic if for no other reason in that it is one of the most prominent and visible routes from the. The bugaboos consist of high quality rock spires rising from beautiful glaciers, and the variety and number of rock routes is astounding.
On july 27, we summited bugaboo spire via the ne ridge. We combine our love of alpine climbing, skiing and photography to explore wilderness locations around the globe. Stanhope completed the first ascent of this pitch route in bugaboo. Bugaboosnowpatch col conditions british columbiacanada. The guidebook used in the 1970s gave the route no name at all bill putnam, 1971. A familiar trip up the bugaboo snowpatch col and a casual stroll across the upper vowell glacier took us to the base of the west ridge. The beckeychouinard south howser spire, west ridge pigeon spire, northeast ridge bugaboo spire and snowpatch and surfs up snowpatch spire attract worldclass climbers. Pigeon spire, south howser tower, bugaboo spire, and snowpatch spire all. After just one visit, you will want to return on a yearly basis, alas as the date shows, i have not been there since 2006. John guy and i headed to the bugaboos for a few days of climbing in late july. The bugaboos have several internationally known rock climbing routes. On july 28, the pair climbed up the shooting gallery and crossed the seventh rifle to gain new ground.
Hi, the bugaboos are in the northern purcell range in british columbia. Snowpatch spire, east face, new routes aac publications. Bugaboo provincial park is an alpine rock climbers dream come true. Mar 23, 2016 the gendarme atop the gendarme pitch of the ultra classic kain route 5. The austrian climber described his route up bugaboo spire as his most difficult canadian ascent, more challenging than his.
Bugaboo glacier provincial park c r e s c e n t g l a c i e r anniversary peak 2785m rock ridge peak 3002m malloy igloo conrad kain hut boulder camp private legend hiking parking trail route road gravel surface park boundary shelter tent camping winter recreation area privately operated n e s w brisco 45km r ockypoint c r e k applebee dome camp. The bugaboos are a mountain range in the purcell mountains of eastern british columbia. There are two classic british columbia climbing routes. It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write trip reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. The snowpatch route on spowpatch spire in the bugaboos is a classic if for no other reason in that it is one of the most prominent and visible routes from the kain hut. Moderate climbing past old pitons on quality rock put us immediately behind another party. It was wonderful to be able to spend a week in the bugaboos with leif. Climb bugaboo spire, ne ridge, bugaboo spire trailhead. The largest wall on snowpatch is the east face with routes ranging from 12 to 15 pitches and almost all of them being big wall in nature. Tony mclane and nathan macdonald have climbed a new moderate on the north howser towers in canadas bugaboos. Most of snowpatchs viable free routes are on its western face. It starts directly above the bugaboo snowpatch col, is nw facing so typically colder, and does not reach the summit but gains a prominent shoulder above the tom eagan wall. There is a couple of good spots to fill up water bottles next to the snow patch. At first step move right to base of first pitch, climb crack to ridge crest in one long pitch that is 5.
Snowpatch spire, beckeymather route, first free ascent canada, british columbia, purcell mountains, bugaboos. Bugaboo glacier provincial park in british columbia contains within its boundaries some of the finest rock climbing in the world. There is a map in the photo gallery for krausmccarthy approach beta. First climbed in 1916 by conrad kain, it has been a treasured objective ever since. The famous bugaboos is one of the mustvisit places in north america. The best and most accesible alpine granite climbing area in canada. The route follows a large prow between the real mexcalito and spicy beans. I thought i might mention that we had another evac due to rockfall in the col last night. This route is on the north side of snowpatch spire and is easy to spot, just look for the offwidth. Snowpatch spire, east face, new routes canada, purcell mountains, bugaboos over the last decade or so, the 500m east face of snowpatch spire has been transformed into one of the finest alpine free climbing walls in north america. The quality of the granite, the wilderness setting, the sharpness of the peaks, and the beauty of the surrounding glaciers all combine to put the bugs on every climbers hit list. Rock climbing routes in the bugaboos, british columbia.
I had the pleasure of guiding the snowpatch route on snowpatch yesterday. Children refers to the set of objects that logically fall under a given object. Rapping off the tower at dusk, he was back at the campground by 8 p. The kain route on bugaboo spire has 5 good pitches of climbing, the rest is scrambling and boot kicking in 40 degree snow and ice on the way to bugaboo snowpatch col. For starters bugaboo provincial park is no stranger to bad weather. There is a nunatak called the hounds tooth at the head of the valley with bugaboo glacier cascading around both. On my first trip to the bugaboos, i was 21 and working as a guide. The mountain range is located in the core of the purcell mountains, on the border between british columbia and alberta. Bugaboos south howser tower, bugaboo spire, snowpatch spire trip report with pictures steph fabian buhl makes solo winter ascent of 5. The hut sits perched high on a bench above bugaboo creek. This is also a great area for a backpacking trip if you looking for a challenging trip with spectacular alpine scenery. The current guidebook, bugaboo rock, left one name out.
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